I’m currently breaking in two Glock gen4 19s. One will eventually become my everyday carry pistol. The other will serve as my primary training gun.
Because of the issues with my arm/grip/finger strength, I am making a lot of compromises regarding trigger pull weight that I wouldn’t have in the past. It seemed like the details may be of some interest to folks.
The two guns are -46 and -58 (serial numbers). Both guns had trigger pulls that weighed 7# out of the box as measured with an official NRA Weight Set using the center of the trigger … as you’ll see later, that makes an important difference.
46 got measured very specifically as I changed parts along the way:
- 7# out of the box, standard gen4 dot connector
- 6# 12oz (-4 oz) after installing an Apex Ultimate Safety Plunger and Taran Tactical Light Plunger Spring
- 6# 2oz (-10 oz) after installing a Taran Tactical connector
- 5# 8oz (-10 oz) after replacing the stock striker spring with a reduced power 5# version
- still 5# 8oz after installing the Taran Tactical trigger spring
- decent rolling break
That five pound eight ounce pull, when measured at the trigger’s tip, is only three pounds ten ounces. The configuration is exactly the same, it’s just easier to pull at the tip than the center. That’s important to keep in mind if you’re buying parts that are supposed to give you a two pound trigger pull… because it’s almost certainly being measured generously in the lightest spot possible.
58 was a stock-to-complete one time change.
- 7# out of the box, standard gen4 dot connector
- 5# 12oz after the following changes: Apex Ultimate Safety Plunger, Taran Tactical Light Plunger Spring, Taran Tactical connector, gen3 trigger bar (kept striker spring stock)
- very good rolling break
I added the Taran Tactical trigger spring but the trigger would fail to reset when the slide went home gently. It didn’t seem like an issue worth dealing with, especially as it had provided no measurable benefit on 46. The five pound twelve ounce trigger pull at the center measures three pounds twelve ounces at the tip.
While 58 has a tiny bit heavier trigger — four ounces at the center and two at the tip — the pull is much smoother, has a better roll through the break, and maintains the stock striker spring weight. I may play with a reduced striker spring in it just for the purpose of getting a measurement, but the trigger pull is very satisfactory as is and provides the comfort of stock striker force for breaking primers.
My plan is to convert the 46 gun to the same setup as the 58.
Both guns sport Dave Spaulding’s Ameriglo orange CAP front sights (green tritium) and Pro Operator rears (yellow tritium) and Glock extended slide release levers.
Train hard & stay safe! ToddG
I know Randy at Apex said they are working on Glock triggers come this year. If they come out with a flat face trigger, I wonder how it may help with the perceived pull weight and overall feel to compensate rather than compromise with spring changes.
Do you have to buy two sets of sights to get the set up you’ve got?
Here’s some results I got from my G4 G34 with Zev Striker Block, Zev Race Connector, Zev Firing Pin Safety Plunger and spring, and Zev trigger return spring.
2lb 12oz; 4# Wolf spring with IDP Striker (lightened and extended)
2lb 12oz; Zev “light striker spring” with IDP striker.
3lb 0oz; 4.5# Ghost spring with IDP striker.
3.lb 10oz; 5# Wolf spring with stock striker.
4lb 0oz; stock spring with 2 coils cut and stock striker
4lb 4oz; Zev “standard striker spring” IDP Striker
Great choice of a G19 for EDC. I assume they both have the fantastic Gadget installed. Does the Gadget add any weight to the pull?
Thanks for the testing. I currently run a minus connector and the NY-1 trigger spring and I enjoy it. I may have to try some of the parts you mentioned.
Just curious what happened to the Burton 9mm 1911? Or was it not intended for EDC?
Hey Todd-are you going to test a Sig P320? I have one and the trigger is incredible for a striker gun. I’m still a Glockie, though. Really hate the grooved Glock trigger ’cause BandAids get expensive after a while. Good luck on full recovery.
This is a very informative write-up. I really like the trigger pull information and how it changed after various replacement parts were installed. I like the Ameriglos, too. Superb sights. Your EDC choice is excellent, too. I’ve experimented with a PPQ, P228, and an STI Trojan 5.0 9mm 1911, but I went back to old painless, my Gen 4 G19. Sometimes, you just got stick with a good thing. I look forward to your experience with it.
Jay — You can buy the front and rear sights separately.
Irelander — Yes, all my Glocks have Gadgets on them. I’m sure if you had measurement taking gear sensitive enough you’d see that it must add some weight because it’s weight you physically have to move when pressing the trigger. It wouldn’t register on an NRA Weight Set because the Gadget falls to the “shoot” position due to gravity. From what I’ve been able to measure using an electronic gauge with the gun level, it doesn’t make a difference that registers with the gauge.
The Burton gun is still alive and well and there should be a nice photo spread of it soon.
Jeff — I’m not planning to do any particular tests for the time being. I wouldn’t test any gun that has to be holstered without positive control of the firing mechanism (hammer fired, manual safety, Gadget, etc).
And thanks to everyone for the well wishes and encouragement!
Todd,
Where on the trigger face are you measuring the weight? I was playing around with a trigger pull gauge that I bought recently to help tune 1911 extractors, and I found the following results in 4 different guns:
Gen4 G35, 4.5# striker spring, dot connector, wolff extra power trigger return spring – 4.0# at the very tip, 5.0# about 1/8″ up from the tip.
Gen4 G19, completely stock – 4#, 4oz at tip, 5# 8oz at 1/8″ up from tip.
Gen3 G17, stock – 4#, 8oz at tip, 5# 10 oz at 1/8″ up from tip.
Gen3 G26, stock – 6# 10 oz at 1/8″ up from tip.
I was able to get very consistent results of 3 trigger pulls in a row for each measurement. I typically press the trigger with my finger all the way at the bottom of the trigger guard (sliding along the trigger guard as I press). I felt the 1/8″ up from the tip was about the center point of where I typically press.
And there I was telling all my friends – “ToddG is a 1911 convert”. Your making a liar out of me. And hurting JMB’s feelings. And probably Jason Burtons feelings too.
Did you even get to wear out a set of mag springs on that Heirloom??
All in jest! I get it; capacity, maintenance, yadda yadda.
Well, it was fun while it lasted.
Todd-the Sig P320 is a polymer framed striker fired weapon. It is literally a Glock with a higher bore axis and an incredible trigger for a striker fired pistol. I would love to read your thoughts on the gun………
Todd, what’s your thought about changing trigger pull weights on a defensive g-19?
Kneeshot — I definitely still have the gun and will continue to shoot it. It’s just too awesome to be a safe queen. But the main factor was being at a gas station a while back and seeing something going on that set off the “I may have to shoot someone in a minute” alarm. That was closely followed by the “I may have to shoot someone in a minute and have my awesome one of a kind irreplaceable Heirloom Jason Burton 1911 confiscated for an indefinite period of time” alarm. Shortly thereafter, two new Glocks.
David — One of these will be my carry gun. The other is a dedicated practice gun intended to mimic the carry gun. As I’ve said before, the most important thing is to understand what you are changing and why so you can justify it in court if you have to. I don’t think having a light trigger just for the sake of it is a good thing. I could make these about a pound lighter if I wanted to. But these are what work well for me given my current physical limitations. Before I had surgery on my right arm, a stock dot connector in a gen4 Glock was perfectly adequate.
Have you decided to move away from the minus connector and the NY1 trigger for a specific reason, or just trying out different setups?
Are you going to carry your Glock 19 AIWB?
Todd,
Love the information on this site. Only place like it. I’m curious as to why you chose the gen4 19 when the M&P seemed to do better in your torture tests? No judgement here, I have both, but am trying to move to one platform or the other. My accuracy tends to be more consistent with the M&P, but I just like the 19 better for carry. That may be all there is to it, but just wanted to see what your opinion was. So many posts on the web about gen4 ejection and M&P accuracy problems it’s almost got me scared to by either one.